Printing on Canvas

The ability to print photographs on canvas using the Z3100 printer opens a whole

new world of possibilities for me.   The look of canvas prints is very different from

the look of prints on paper.  Personally, I have never cared for the look of matte

prints on photo paper.  I know many people prefer the matte look, but I am not one

of them.  The look of a print on matte canvas, however, is completely different and I

find now that most of my printing is on canvas.  In this article, I will report on the

types of canvas I have used and then provide a complete tutorial on how to print and

stretch canvas using the Z3100. 

HP provides four types of canvas for use on the Z3100.  The four types of canvas are

the Universal Matte Canvas, Artist Matte Canvas, Professional Matte Canvas, and

Collector Satin Canvas.  The Universal Canvas is the least expensive and the Satin is

the most expensive.  All types are supplied in rolls of 20' by 24".  I have used all

four types for various prints and although the Professional is the most expensive, it

provides the nicest looking prints. 

Universal Matte Canvas:  This grade of canvas is not only the least expensive but is

the thinnest of the canvas options.  Prints look fine and the surface has a nice

texture to it.  I find that this grade of canvas tends to show small cracks when

stretched on stretcher bars that have a sharper edge to them.  The cracks are more

visible in dark areas of the print that happen to fall on an edge.  The cracking is

minor but visible on close inspection.  I have decided that the cost savings of the

lesser grade is not where I want to go with my printing.

Artist Matte Canvas:  This is a good quality canvas.  Although it is about $12 more

per roll than the Universal Canvas, I like the results much better.  It is a heavier

weight canvas and is brighter white when compared to the Universal product.  Prints

look absolutely great and the heavier weight gives it a more quality look and feel.  I

have not had problems with cracking at the edges of the stretch bars.  The surface

texture is very nice and adds a great look to the print.

Professional Matte Canvas:  This is an excellent canvas.  It is the brightest white

compared to the other matte canvas products and is much heavier too.  This is my

favorite canvas and I plan to use it for my favorite or special prints.

Collector Satin Canvas:  This is the first canvas I tried.  It is the most expensive,

heavier than the Artist canvas but slightly less white, and has a satin finish.  The

printed result is a somewhat glossy print which reflects light back to the viewer and

sometimes gets in the way of the print.  There are some pictures that will just not

work well on this surface.  It all depends on the lighting. When I have showed the

same photo printed on the Satin and the Artist canvas, in all cases people preferred

the look of the Artist canvas.  It is not that the Satin look is bad, it is just not how I

expected a canvas print to look.

In summary, the Professional Matte Canvas is my canvas of choice at this time. 

Although it is more expensive than the other matte canvas offerings, I believe it is

worth it for the look and quality of the product.    I have not tried canvas products

from other manufacturers as I am happy with the HP product.  I will still use the

other canvas options depending on the print and how it will be used.

Printing and Stretching Canvas

It is important is to understand that stretch bars come in 1 inch increments with the

smallest generally available bar at 8 inches and incrementing up in size by one inch. 

13 inch bars are hard to find and using bars greater than 36" will generally require

some braces on the back.  I like the look of the "gallery wrap" which means the

image wraps around the side of the stretcher bars to the back.  The standard bars

are 3/4 inch thick which means that the printed surface must take into account

additional 3/4 inch on the sides to avoid white strips showing.  As an example, if

your printed area is 16x20, you will have to use 14x18 stretcher bars to avoid white

unprinted parts of the canvas from showing on the sides.  Keep this in mind when

you crop your images for printing.  Using medium or museum grade bars can add up

to 1.5 inches on each side.   You can also choose the have the image appear on the

front of the canvas only with the unprinted canvas showing around the sides.  This

method requires a precise image size and extreme care in mounting to the stretcher

bars.  Personally, I do not care for this look.

Allow the printed canvas to sit overnight to insure the ink is dry and set.  This avoids

the possibility of small cracks

developing as you stretch and bend

the canvas around the bars.

The Z3100 does not use the internal

cutter to cut the canvas once it is

printed.  After a brief ink drying time,

you will have to manually advance the

canvas to cut it with scissors or other

cutting tool.  The recent firmware

upgrade has added a great feature

that allows you to advance and retract

the paper.  This works very well for

drawing the canvas back into the

printer instead of the previous manual

process.

Choose the correct stretcher bar size

and assemble.  You may chose to glue

the bars for a tighter hold.  I do not

use glue but rely on the staples to

hold the frame. 

Once the bars are assembled,  you

have a nice frame to use to mount the

canvas.  This is a good time to use a

square to make sure the frame is true

and square.

As a double check, lay the frame over

the print so you have an idea where

the front edges will be.  This gives

you an opportunity to check the

framing of the print.

Turn the print face down and position

the frame exactly where you want it

so it is straight and all parts of the

print will wrap to the back so the

white unprinted canvas is not visible

on the sides.

Using a standard staple gun, put one

staple on one side of the frame. 

Pull the canvas tight from the other

end that was just stapled and secure

that side with a staple.

Now work on the next side putting one

staple in the center and pull the

canvas tight on the opposite side and

staple again.

Now the corner work begins.  There

are several ways to do this.  You can

experiment until you find something

that works for you.  Here is what I do. 

First, cut the corner canvas at an

angle.

Since I want the wrap on the top and

bottom rather than the side, I cut a

straight  line on the canvas that will

be on the top up to the front corner of

the bar.  I then cut a lip that will go

behind the front of the canvas,

creating a neat corner.

Then fold the canvas something like

wrapping a present and staple that

corner.  It is probably easier to look

at the picture because it is difficult to

put this process in words. 

Repeat the same process on each

corner. 

Secure the rest of the canvas along

each side of the frame.  That is it.

You now have a gallery wrapped

canvas with the print nicely wrapping

around sides.